Author Archives: playstn

Nasal irrigation (?)

Ho yeah baby, we are going straight for the juggular on this one. Stick a tube up your nose and squeeze your sinuses full of water. Oh and add some dissolved salt and bicarbonate of soda for good measure. It’s claimed to be the way forward for people like me who seem to forever being bunged up. Well, that’s nasal irrigation theory. I’m going to make one and use it, that’s what I’m going to do, we’ll see!
Elephant jug and Pugg mug

If that’s all you need to see then: Watch the Nasal irrigation video now!

The story and the facts

So, broke, bored and bunged up for the tenth day running I spent the morning internetting for all the old wives tales to fix poor head. Sure enough the one I’ve tried awfully at before came up time and again. I’m not allowed to use my wife’s elephant jug anymore as I’ve been banned. It was no good anyway, I couldn’t squeeze it and the rinse just ran out of the top onto my head. A new plan was required and a new sense of purpose.

For the bored bit, I decided to document the manufacture of my own nasal irrigation system, it really doesn’t deserve a copyright campaign to defend it but it bloody works.
If you can’t wait for ingredients then go straight to the video now. If you have two more minutes then read on and you will find the video at the bottom of the page.

Inspriation and credits for the Whole Nasal inspriation system thing

So, some credit first to the page that inspired me go for the whole Nasal irrigation thing. Secondly for the Nasal rinse (solution) ingredients list that I used for my experiment. The rest of the approach I made up but I’ll paraphrase the content below.

Nasal rinse in a nutshell

Nasal irrigation system

The nasal rinse bottle

  1. One 250ml squeezable clean and empty condiments bottle (There are some 57 varieties of these)
  2. One lid for the same bottle!
  3. Approximately 30cm of 6-8mm transparent flexible hose (I cut mine from an old activity drinking bladder)
  4. Some Blue-Tac, scissors and a drill bit the same diameter as the flexible tubing.

The nasal rinse

  • Half a teaspoon of Salt (NaCl – table salt etc.)
  • Half a Teaspoon of Bicarbonate of Soda
  • An average size glass of pre-boiled water but cooled to be tepid. (To be precise that’s enough to fill a 250ml bottle).

The Video – Nasal irrigation system, Kiwinutz style

Next steps?

Well, I hinted that I saw it through to the end. I’m still here, it’s not an instant cure but I do feel slightly better. The headaches are fading but the long game? I didn’t think you needed to see me squirt it up my nose, it’s not pretty but is slightly amusing. You don’t drown if that’s what you are worried about, you do still get wet(ish) but the good news is that no elephants were harmed in the making of this video.

Addendum (18th May)

Two weeks after my sinusitis attack, and my counter-attack with nasal irrigation Kiwinutz-style I’ve found that it actually works. I haven’t breathed through my nose this easily for months. I‘ve maintained my assault, sometimes three times per day, sometimes only once but always daily. I tried upping the quantity of salt and bicarb, it didn’t really provide any more benefits, in fact I quickly returned back to the recommended half teaspoon. Keeping a warm hat on has also been a good backup.

The bottle is still the original however it has started to degrade after lots of squeezing and will need replacing soon. The blue tac often needs respreading and I’m going to upgrade to a hot glue gun for the next model. The summary is that I want to progress with this, perhaps even purchase one of the commercial units but when in the middle of a sinus nightmare it was perfect for the job.

Autel Autolink AL519 – unpacking video and review

Autel AutoLink AL519If I had to guess then I’d say that the item shamefully missing from most modern household garages or sheds has to be the  ecu scanner / engine management light reader / engine diagnostic reader or whatever you care to call those mystical machines that go ping!.. in the hands of the AA / RAC / Service mechanic or local mechanic, as you wait for the sharp draw of breath…

if you don’t want to read?…, then the Autel AL519 unpacking video is at the bottom.

Well I’ve finally got one. With three cars recently at the mercy of the darned engine management light blinking at me or sneering at me, I bit the bullet. I researched the heck out of it for all of two days, then with £50 to spend I hit the amazon account and took up one one time ‘Prime offer’ for free next-day delivery. Turned out the Autel AL519 was only £49.33 on Prime so happy days. I could have saved another £2.45 if I wanted to wait an extra four days for delivery. Not me I wanted it now, well tomorrow*.

*It also turns out that I didn’t get it out the box for a week so another pointless prime cash-in but impulse is impluse. If anyone’s interested, it did turn up next-day at the prescribed time, so well done Amazon.

I think that I’ve got about as good as I could do with my buck. The final purchase came down to the Autel AL519 OBD2 & CAN (whatever CAN means?). So, watch the vid, it’s short so don’t put the kettle on.


What’s in the box? AUTEL AL519 OBD2 & CAN Scan tool >>

Next…

Well if you’re still interested I’m going to put this beauty into action, in true numpty style and see what I do with it. I’ll post any links as they happen. Ta ta

Kit Hill Quarry – The Green Physic – Severe 4a

The Green Physic – Severe 4a – 7m

The Green Physic - Severe 4a

The Green Physic – Severe 4a

Kit Hill Quarry has received a new climbing route, The Green Physic. The route was put up by Paul Seymour and Katrina Werren-Hyde on 7th May 2015.

‘The Green Physic’ is found 10 metres North East of the rounded-arete of ‘Rusty Ring Route’ on a south-facing natural looking outcrop, a few metres from the drainage stream. Or 20 metres North West of the ‘Cold Corner’ The crags notable features are the hanging arete on the right side at 5 metres and the near horizontal break that leads from the base of the hanging-arete across the climb at mid height. Above the break the rocks take on a more weathered appearance.

First known ascent of the Green Physic - 7th May 2015

First known ascent of the Green Physic – 7th May 2015

The Green Physic – Severe 4a – 7m

The route starts at the obvious central line of the face, just left of a sloping grassy ledge at head height. Good holds, through a series of small ledges takes you to the obvious horizontal break where the rock steepens. Protection is good at this point before the step up (crux) to finish with a mantelshelf 1 metre left of the hanging arete.

Moderation

The climb will need moderating by someone, however the best guess is that the technical grade is found on the step up from the horizontal break.

Bypass tricity bendix SI455B oven timer

Hi, If you’re reading this then you have just realised that your oven won’t work because the timer on your oven is not working properly. I spent a year pondering this before I finally got around to fixing it.

My cooker model is the tricity bendix si455b, the timer model is the gosheim D-78559-b but the principle is the same for most timers.

 

Getting to your oven timer by flipping the hob

Getting to your oven timer by flipping the hob

Initially I realised that if you had the hob on for cooking from saucepans then hey presto the timer started working. From this I concluded that the reason the oven wouldn’t work was because of a faulty timer. Apparently it gets stuck on ‘auto’, if you can get it off ‘auto’ then the oven works. That’s when I started investigating how to bypass the timer.

First problem – getting to the timer

Not as bad as I imagined, is the quick answer. But do ensure that you have powered off the oven from the main fuse board. Safety first! After that….

The hob effectively hinges from the rear, you just have to release enough screws from the side, and upper front until you can flip up the hob. The key to success for my model was that there were 3 screws hiding behind some inch-wide trim down the side. After that it was a doddle.

Second problem – working out which wires to connect to bypass the timer

I used some pages from the web, first was a youtube video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHCJad37YGI . I also found this page on the web which was simple yet helpful because it had virtually the same timer model as mine http://www.justanswer.com/uk-appliance/5wpb1-oven-cut-cancelling-timer-alarm-the-display.html .

It was now more straight-forward than I first thought. It did help a lot to see the above two webpages and I did approach the problem in a very considered way. Never rushing until I had thought it through properly.

Third problem – Bypass top oven and main oven procedure

Take a picture of the timer before starting to ensure that failing everything, I could put it back together again, working or not working!

Original Assembly before bypass

Original photo of wire assembly. Note wire numbers to aid the instructions

Basically the job for my cooker was to:

  • Bypass the top oven (and grill) – Wires 1 (white) and Wires 2 (red) – combine and insulate!
  • Bypass the main oven- Wires 3 (yellow) and Wires 4 (orange) – combine and insulate!

I removed wires 1 and 2, cut the spade connectors off and combined them using a wiring block. I then insulated it with insulation tape. hey presto it worked.

Top oven - combine wires 1 and 2

Top oven – combine wires 1 and 2

Bypass main oven. I could have done exactly the same (combine wires 3 and 4) as for the top oven but instead I actually pulled the yellow (wire 3) completley off the timer and the oven switch. I then pushed the doubled orange (wire 4) straight onto the oven switch where the yellow wire had been leading to. I then could comepletely remove the yellow wire from the system. Same job as combining them really but a bit neater. Below is the picture of what the yellow (wire 3) and orange (wire 4) wires look like when combined. This was me testing before I went for the final finish.

Main oven timer - combine wires 3 and 4

Main oven timer – combine wires 3 and 4

The jobs was exactly the same for both oven types, however by thinking through I realised that for the main oven, all I needed to do was to remove the yellow wire completely and push the orange wire straight onto the oven switch (where the yellow wire was removed from the switch).

Finally a picture of the timer board without the oven and top oven wires, incase of confusion.

Timer board - after bypass. Only two wires left. Leave them alone

Timer board – after bypass. Only two wires left. Leave them alone

I hope this helps!